Showing posts with label park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label park. Show all posts

Friday, September 15, 2017

A Trip to Yellowstone National Park - Lessons Learned

And now we are on to the lessons learned portion of the trip.  The good, the bad, the ugly...the stuff to remember for next time.

Also, please take into account that this is all coming from our personal perspective.  Remember that we are Ohioans and we are used to very humid environments and warm temperatures.  The fluctuation in temperatures from day to night is not as drastic as those temperatures in the high desert.

Gear and Supplies
I must admit that for the first time being to a place like this, we did pretty well on packing for the hikes and photography.  Some misses, though:

Hiking:  The temperature swings were there, but it was warmer than we had been lead to believe from our research.  We brought along hats and hoodies...but didn't really need it.  I'm not going to say that the advice was bad...perhaps this particular trip was just different than the norm.  Again, coming from Ohio, our perception of the situation is probably different than someone else's.

Photography:  I had ordered some neutral density(ND) and polarizing filters for my lenses, but there was an issue with the delivery and they did not make it to me before the trip.  There were times when a polarizer would have helped or an ND would have made things easier.  Will definitely have those for the next trip.

Lessons Learned: the climate is a lot more erratic than you might be used to, so plan for the worst case scenario.   The camera and focal length I chose were near perfect for me....however, the strong high desert sun and reflective surfaces could have benefited from a polarizing and neutral density filter.

Climate
As mentioned before, Ohio is a humid place in the summer months.  Wyoming in late August/Early September is not.  Coupled with the haze of the surrounding states forest fires, the climate played havoc with my sinus'.   We got so dry that nose bleeds were common as were inflamed nostrils.   I needed quite a bit of nasal spray (Flonase) as well as a NeilMed Sinus Rinse to help get me through.  The local Walgreens also stocked a NeilMed NasoGel that helped to keep my sinus' properly lubricated from the dry environment.



Beyond that, we both found the temperatures to be great most of the days in the park.  It rained a little bit on one of the days, but it was barely enough to get anything wet.  Had we not been out in it, I would not have believed it rained at all.

Since it is dry, and the dry heat doesn't feel the same as a humid heat....STAY HYDRATED!  The 3 liter Camelbak units were great as they carried plenty of water for a long day of hiking and site seeing.

Lessons Learned:   If you are not used to dry climates, then bring along items that will help you cope with it.  Since it is very dry and not humid, you may over look your hydration.  Keep plenty of water and snacks with you.  It is very easy for the time to get away from you if you are not careful.

Estimating Your Capabilities
Not going to lie...we were so excited that our first day we hiked and drove a ton.    We were absolutely exhausted come the end of the day...so we took the next day and stayed in Cody.  Travel may have also played a role in the fatigue as well.   It was OK, too as the temperatures that day were the hottest they would be all week, so staying local and visiting some of the sites in Cody was a good alternative.

Before leaving, I had already researched a lot of the trails through various sites and books.  They normally rated them on a 1 to 5 scale.  As with anything, you'll want to take these as subjective.   While there were definitely some that were harder than others - none were insurmountable.  All the same - we stuck to the ones rated 1 through 3 for this first trip.   Being our first time here, we really wanted to get an idea of what is there.  Subsequent trips will allow us time to do more of a "deep dive" into the park.   This trip gave us the much needed intel to have a much better second through "nth" trips.

At a minimum, we hiked no less than 5 miles per day on trails but usually more to give you a frame of reference.

Lessons Learned:  Know what your physical limitations are and work your site seeing and hiking around it.  Cell service is very poor in most of the park, so if you push yourself too far - professional help could be a long way off.

Expectations on the Sites
A lot of hype was built up on the thermal features.  To be honest, we were not really that impressed by them.  Sure, the geysers were fun and Morning Glory Pool and Grand Prismatic Spring were beautiful....but beyond that - it was of very little visual interest to us.  From a geological perspective - they are fascinating to be sure.

Old Glory was fun and a great way to see a geyser go off.  However, we found that the other geysers behind Old Faithful to be just as fascinating.  For example - Beehive Geyser was a great show.  What we did not know was that the park rangers broadcast over a specific radio frequency and you can monitor that for park activity.  We were walking along the far west side of Old Faithful and heard on a passerby's radio "we have a water indicator at Beehive".  My wife asked what that meant and the guy told us that within 10 minutes Beehive Geyser should erupt and it was worth our time to get there.  Next time, I will be doing research on a suitable radio and the frequencies they broadcast on.

Bear Spray.  We rented a unit for the week.  Since we were unfamiliar with the location we decided to make sure that we took proper precautions.  While there we did see a black and grizzly bear.  The black bear was much closer....and some of the trails were marked with signs stating that bear activity was seen recently on the trails we were on.   I just assumed that we might run into anything wild in the park at any time.  Better safe than sorry.

I do hope that more money is placed into the Yellowstone Park for upkeep of some of the boardwalk areas.  Specifically Mammoth - a lot of the boardwalks were in horrible shape with lots of cracked  and loose boards.  I'm 235 lbs and I did not feel safe in certain areas of the terraces.

When the second piece of paper they hand you after your park pass receipt states, "Yellowstone is a dangerous place".  Always keep that in mind.  I'm not saying to be paranoid.  I'm not saying you shouldn't go.   Just a friendly reminder to all that you are the visitor here and the animals here are wild and potentially dangerous.  This is as close to a safari type environment as the United States will probably ever have.
In a way, it is very refreshing.   The lack of guardrails in places, the open environments is a far cry from the "nanny state" mentality that a lot of us must live under in our everyday lives.  They tell you right from the get go....it is dangerous here, proceed at your own risk, have a great time...your safety is on you!  I LOVE IT.

Lessons Learned:  Yellowstone is hard to get a grasp around in your brain if you've never been.  I recommend doing as we did and spend a day just getting your bearings,  Drive the grand loop and hit some of the major points, noting what you want to go back to and explore in depth.
No one is going to hold your hand here - your safety is on you.  Prepare accordingly.
Don't allow your first impression of some sites tarnish your outlook on other similar sites.

The People - Staff and Visitors

Staff:   I'm not sure that I've run into a park staff that is more helpful, friendly and caring.  I really mean that.  It is a genuine love they have for the park and it really shows through.   We stumbled across a ranger led hike to Wraith Falls.  The volunteer ranger named Emily not only gave us great information, but was very personable.  We wanted to be her friend.  Not only did she tell us about the falls, but stopped along the way to discuss other features within eye sight of the trail.  Between stops, she took the time to talk with everyone in the group individually and learn a little bit about them.

At Canyon Village, Ranger Susan gave us a lot of great recommendations for our visit.  She is the one that turned us on to a sunset drive through South Fork Road.  She also mentioned the scenic Chief Joseph trail drive to the NorthEast Entrance.  While doing that trip, we went through the Montana town of Cooke City and Silver Gate.   Silver Gate greeted us with an early morning breakfast at a local restaurant - one of the best we had the whole week.

People:  I'd say that 99% of the people - people being visitors - were awesome.  Kind, generous, willing to have a conversation with a total stranger.  They come from all walks of life as well as all points of the globe.  Yellowstone brings them in.  What to look out for?  We did witness some incidents that could have been handled better.

For instance, we were by Dunraven Pass and there was a black bear spotted down an embankment by the road.  It jammed up traffic pretty good.  Not 40 yards from the spot was a parking lot for a trail.  Some people got so over whelmed that they started pulling over into a non-existent shoulder on the road.   One woman almost drove her Jeep over the embankment.  It was so bad that one wheel was off the roadway.  When she tried to correct her error, she came inches from almost hitting another car behind her on the road.

Another incident occurred at Mammoth.  The main parking area was full, and people were driving the lot waiting for other cars to leave.  One person stopped and waited, while another pulled around her to get into position for a spot on the other side of the lot.  Person 1 misjudged the intentions of the car they were waiting on.  Person 2 got a parking spot.  Person 1 decide that this was unfair and drove by Person 2 and scolded them for "taking their spot".  A very public and shaming scolding.
It was such a shame too as there was a lot just to the other side of Mammoth that had 20-30 open spots and an access to the boardwalk from there.

Lesson Learned:  Talk with people, both visitors and staff alike.  99% of the people there were more than happy to chat up for a minute and share what they know or saw.  You'll get some great insider tips on what to see, some less traveled trails and even sightings of wildlife or geothermal feature eruptions.  Keep your cool and always look for alternatives.  We found that there was plenty of parking and ample access to everything if you are patient.


Well, that's the end of it.....my exhaustive view of the trip my wife and I made you Yellowstone.  Please, feel free to comment or email if you have any questions, tips, hints or information that you might deem useful to those of us that may want to go or plan to return to Yellowstone some day.

Monday, September 11, 2017

A Trip to Yellowstone National Park - Traveling to the Park

We stayed in the town of Cody, WY.  Travel to Yellowstone is pretty straight forward by taking route 14/16/20 west.  It's a straight shot.

Before we get into too much of the trip in and the time of day travels, let me get this out of the way.

Cell phone service.  
We all rely on our cell phones.  Not only for communication, but for GPS, maps and data service.   About 10-15 miles out from Cody, you'll notice that the cell service is very spotty at best and usually non-existent.  Make sure that you have a basic grasp of how to use a map.  Cell service is not only spotty on the trip to the park, but within the confines if the park as well.    The higher elevations and the major areas like Mammoth, Old Faithful have better service....but for the most part don't expect it or rely on it.

If you want to use an electronic map of some kind I recommend using a dedicated GPS (I chose the Garmin Oregon 600t) or a car GPS.  The paper map they give you at the entrance of the park worked well for us too, getting to oriented and driving in the right direction when you are ready to go from place to place.

For those interested, I have Verizon as my cell service provider.  I did have a few people ask me about my reception.  There were places that we got a goo enough 4G signal that my wife was able to video call her family in Ohio.  Some others stated that they got no service anywhere in the park.  Your mileage will vary depending on the device and service provider.

Travel from our Airbnb lair to Yellowstone

It is roughly 52 miles from Cody to the East Entrance, so just under an hour of travel time.  While this might seem like a bit of a pain, the drive is very easy and the views will keep you entertained the whole time.  Wyoming provides "pullouts" for slower traffic to use which minimizing the need to pass on a double yellow line.

This part of Wyoming is "wild" or at least "wilder" than most of us are probably used to driving through.  Deer of all kinds, pronghorn all roam about freely.  While we did see some during the day, at sunrise/sunset and at night the animal sightings on the road increase.   So make sure that you are hyper aware on the roads.  Follow all directions on the road signs as well.

Once you get to the any of the entrances, you are looking at another 20-25 minutes until you get to what is called the Grand Loop.  This grand loop will take you through all the major sites in Yellowstone.

Here are some views you'll see coming through the East Entrance road:
1/125, f/8, ISO 2200 @ 70mm

1/400, f/8, ISO 100 @ 75mm

Overlooking Yellowstone Lake
1/250, f/11, ISO 100 @ 27mm
Not only do you have views, but there are also some stops you can make along the way.  You drive through Shoshone National Forest, Buffalo Bill Dam and National Park.  You'll also see a diverting road called South Fork, which provides a great drive and some very scenic sites that are worth your time.

Other Entrances
We took an alternative route on day, going to the Northeast Entrance.  The views there were fantastic as well.    The road called Chief Joseph Highway, is a lot more challenging to drive.  it takes you north and west into the lower section of Montana through Cooke City and Silver Gate.  We wake up extra early to take the 2 hour drive through this roadway, ate breakfast in a little restaurant in Silver Gate.  Below is a picture of a store across the street from the restaurant.  Also, note that cell phone service through most of the Chief Joseph Highway is non-existent.

Taken with my Google Nexus 6p and stock camera app
Timing
By timing, I am referring to when you go to and leave Yellowstone.  The earlier you leave, the less likely you are to run into any kind of heavy traffic.  We noticed that if you are traveling in around 10am, there were a lot of slower vehicles (RV, larger trucks).   We also noticed that late August/early September, the early morning and later evening temperatures are a lot less warm.   The high temp for the day generally peaked around noon-1pm - stayed constant, then dropped around 5-6pm.

Another thing about the temperature - Cody versus Yellowstone.  Cody tends to be a bit warmer than Yellowstone - sometimes a difference of 20-25F.   It was nothing to see 90F in Cody, only to travel to Yellowstone and it be 75-80F.  Make sure to check the temperatures in the destination.
The locals refer to the region as the "high desert", so expect fluctuations in temperature as the normal there.    Low humidity can also be unpleasant.   Being from Ohio where it can get quite humid, it was a bit of an adjustment.  Sinus issues from the low humidity as well as the dusty/windy conditions caused me to rely on my allergy medications more than I had expected.

Wednesday, September 6, 2017

A Trip To Yellowstone National Park - Trip Planning

After we set our sites on a target we rarely miss.  Yellowstone National Park (YNP) was in the cross hairs, so the planning was in full force.

My wife being a much better planner of travel than me, handled the flight details, lodging and rental vehicles.

Budget
We discussed a budget for the trip.  We wanted to be roughly around $3000USD in total for lodging, travel and car rental.

Flights versus Driving
Our vacation time was limited to 7 days and we even planned the trip around a holiday weekend(Aug 26 - Sept 2).
Researching travel options showed that flights from our location would be the best option.  A flight from John Glenn International Airport (KCMH) to Yellowstone International Airport (KCOD) would take around 5.5 hours, while driving would yield a 24 hour trip time.


There were 2 main choices from our location: Delta and United Airlines.  Both flew from John Glenn into Denver, then a connecting flight from Denver to Cody.  United won out for us.  We decided to spring for first class.  I'm very glad we did.  Almost 4 hours in the air, it was nice having the extra leg room and the enhanced services.  Flight costs were $1600 for 2 round trip tickets.

Lodging
Our first look into lodging was staying in a resort within the park itself.  Possibly at Mammoth or Old Faithful.  Those proved to be cost prohibitive for our budget.  Lodging cost alone in those places would have almost exhausted our budget.  One of our favorite ways of securing a place to stay is using the mobile app called Airbnb.  If you've never used it, let me tell you that it is one of the most convenient ways of finding a place to stay.  Since using the service, we have never stayed in a hotel since.  I'll not get into the details of it all, but look it up on your smart phone and see the cost savings as well as the convenience/quality of the lodging.

Using Airbnb, we found a great one bedroom place in downtown Cody, WY.  From here, it would only be a 50-60 minute drive to the East Entrance of Yellowstone.  Cost of rental for the week was $800

Why so far away from the entrances?   This is my thought process.  Cody, WY has a lot to offer.  Not being familiar with the region, we were unsure of the weather.  We wanted to make sure that we had activities and entertainment for the bad weather days.  Another consideration is fatigue.  We have had times when you try and pack too much into a day and then you get tired from all the boping about you did.  While possible to run through a lot of YNP from a car, we wanted to be able to experience quite a bit more, so plans for hiking could wear you out.  Having a backup plan would be a good idea.

Vehicle Rental
We were able to get a package deal with our flight from United.  $380 got us a Toyota Camry with 2100 miles of use for the entire week.

A lot of people think that you might want a truck of some kind.   I would consider it a "nice to have" not a necessity.  We did quite well everywhere we went for the whole week.  Since we were driving almost 100 miles per day just too and from the park, having the more fuel efficient car was also a bonus.

Viewing Plan
As hinted to in the first post, we wanted to have an idea of what we wanted to do, but not be so planned out that we scheduled a specific when.

I downloaded a map from the YNP website that had an overview of the park.   Labeled all the entrances, the grand loop and most of the major stops along the way.   From that I made a list of the must see areas.  Old Faithful, Mammoth, Canyon Village, Mt. Washburn just to name a few.

Being an avid hiking family, we wanted more detail on the trails we were going to be exploring.  A book that helped a lot in the planning process was Top Trails Yellowstone and Grand Tetons National Park: 46 Must-Do Hikes For Everyone by Wilderness Press.  It lays out most of the major trails, rating them for difficulty, use, access.  It also gives you details on length in miles as well as trail types, such as loop, one way or out and back.  This resource helped us pick some great hikes and we could pre-plan them to our desired skill level.  We chose to stick with ones that were 5 miles and under.

I also picked up the National Geographic YNP regional topo maps.  I thought those wold be a good, light weight and small addition to the pack for hiking.

With all that down and out of the way, all that was left was the waiting for the day to arrive.  Our next post will cover the photography and hiking gear.  Stay tuned and enjoy!

Monday, September 4, 2017

A Trip To Yellowstone National Park - Introduction



This is a bit of a different post for this site.  It is a bit more in depth, but I thought that I might help others through this process.  I did a lot of research and found quite a few helpful sites and past adventurers to the park.

Even with that there were some things lessons learned to go along with the awe to be found there.

What I would like to do is write up a series of posts to not only chronicle the trip, but to also share my thoughts on the planning process as well as any lessons learned.  Right off the bat, I want everyone to know that there was nothing so horrible that would deter me from returning.  On the contrary, my wife and I found the entire experience much better than expected.

Here is an outline of what I plan to cover:

  • Trip planning
    • Budget
    • Flight
    • Accommodations
    • Rental Vehicle
    • Viewing Plan of the Park
  • Gear
    • Photo Gear
    • Hiking Gear
  • Traveling To The Park
    • Entrances
    • Timing
  • Seeing The Sites
    • Time of Day
    • Weather and Environmental
    • Stuff Beyond Yellowstone
  • Lessons Learned
    • Gear/Supplies - what was missing?
    • Climate - under estimating the climate and landscape (from an Ohio perspective)
    • Estimating your capabilities
    • Expectations on the sites
    • The People - staff and visitors
There may be more information than that, but this is going to be the minimum.

Here, I will start with an introduction of sorts.  For that, the best place to start is the beginning.
For 13 years, our family has gone on vacations almost annually.  Up until 2017, every major trip has been to a coastal location.  We've been to New York City, Virginia Beach, Sandbridge, Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, Nags Head, Orlando, Los Angeles, Boston, Glouster and San Diego.

My wife approached me with the idea that I could pick the destination of our trip for 2017.  No questions - my total choice.   That is a lot of pressure!   This proposition was made to me early in 2016.  I had quite a few places in mind.  Never been to northern California and have always wanted to visit San Francisco.  Yosemite National Park has always been on the short list.  Texas has always been in my thoughts as well with its larger than life people and grand history.  I have some work colleagues that have been to Yellowstone, Grand Tetons and Glacier National Parks and rave about them.   But what about Alaska?   I've always wanted to go there too.  Take a cruise through the north, see the ice, experience the wild tundra, so to speak!   Even going a bit more tame, visit Canada.   I've thought going to Toronto or Calgary might be a great experience.

The more I thought about it though - the more that Yellowstone kept picking at me.  The amount of sites, the fact that it is the first US national park and the world's first national park just had me think that that this was a great place to start off a non-coastal adventure!

Once locked in to that location - the trip process began!

I really hope that you enjoy this series, from a story perspective as well as from an informational/trip planning perspective.

More to come!  Keep your eye on the site for future posts.